Firstly, always examine the hosel opening for sharp edges. If you are installing a graphite shaft it is good practice to ream the inner hosel with a countersink and or de-burring drill bit to give a smooth finish. This avoids any chance of the graphite being cut or shredded by sharp edges, which can lead to major structural failure.
To start, let us install a brand new shaft. If it is a driver, then it is unlikely any length will need to be cut off the tip end of the shaft (known as tip trimming) and only the tip will need to be prepared for installation.
Do this by scraping the paint and poly layer off the shaft with a sharp craft knife positioned at 90 degrees to the shaft. Be careful to avoid cutting into the graphite. The end result should be a dull grey finish, which extends up the shaft about 2.25 cm. This will be a little rough but improves the epoxy bonding strength. A belt sander using a Norax or micro grit-sanding belt (Fig. 1) will achieve the same result faster. Again though, be careful not to cut into the graphite or "flat spot" the shaft.
Mix up some two part shafting epoxy (Fig. 2) according to the instructions. I highly recommend the use of specific shafting epoxy rather than over the counter products found at the local hardware store. It is important to follow the instructions carefully regarding the amounts of Part A and Part B required and to mix a generous amount of epoxy as you do not want to run out or be using the dregs which may not have been mixed properly and can break down when left in the heat of a car boot.
Now install the ferrule. To do this put the ferrule onto the end of the shaft (Fig. 3), narrow end first, with a small dab of epoxy to help it slide up the shaft. Once on a little way, place the club head over the ferrule and literally bang the shaft onto the floor (note: with the grip end of the shaft on the floor and the head end in your hand) so that the ferrule is forced to the exact depth of the hosel (Fig. 4).
Remove the head again for the application of the epoxy.
Use a paddle pop stick and break it width wise in half. (See Figure 2) This is the perfect width to allow the epoxy to get all the way into the hosel and around the walls. Dip the tip of the shaft into the epoxy (Fig. 5), place the club head on the shaft and slide the head all the way down to the ferrule. Make sure it fits snuggly. Clean the excess epoxy off with a lint free towel. Line up the decals as you like, or if you have a spine-aligned shaft follow the manufacturers alignment instructions.
Once your shaft is in place allow 24 hours for the epoxy to cure. Now you can trim the overhang of the ferrule smooth with the hosel. The turning-down process will be shown in Part Three. Now though you are free to regrip the club and off to the driving range you go.
If you are reusing a shaft the original epoxy will need to be ground off. Once this has been achieved treat the shaft as new and follow all the above steps.
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